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A River Runs Through It (and Under It)

Sewer Scene. Phantom of the Opera.
Phantom of the Opera.

Most of us are aware of the underground sewers of Paris (think: Phantom of the Opera), the underground limestone quarries known as the Paris Catacombs (the final resting place of more than 6 million former citizens), and the underground subway system known as the Métro.

Yet there is another hidden wonder of the Parisian underground. It is the ancient river called Bièvre (or Beaver River). Its origin is a spring fed brook located in Guyancourt, approximately 21 kilometers (13 miles) from Paris. It is southwest of Paris and near Versailles. The Left Bank river enters Paris near the Stade Sébastien Charlety on the border of the 13th and 14th arrondissements. Its terminus is into the Seine River right below the Métro Bridge next to Gare d’Austerlitz. However, the whole time the river flows through Paris, it is completely underground, covered up by concrete.

This river was used by Neolithic tribes, the Parisii tribe, the Romans, and finally, the city of Paris. It was the second most important river to Paris next to the Seine. After Philippe II Augustus built the Left Bank wall in 1210 to protect the city from southern attacks, the Bièvre was isolated outside the city limits. One of its uses was to supply water for irrigation to an abbey as well as fortifications.

As the city grew, the area the Bièvre flowed through became very heavily industrialized. This was the area known as Faubourg Saint-Marcel. This faubourg (suburb) was a working class neighborhood that supported tanneries, textile manufacturers, dye-makers, millers, cobblers, and other assorted industries. The factories built up on its banks dumped garbage, pollutants, dyes, acidic materials, and downright nasty stuff into the river. Then the Industrial Revolution hit and it got even worse. Read More A River Runs Through It (and Under It)

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Where Did They Put the Guillotine?

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Execution of Louis XVI. Engraving (unknown: mid-19th century). Author’s collection

In the spring of 1965, a young boy, aged ten, stood on the Place de la Concorde in Paris and looked around at this giant space that now contained an Egyptian obelisk, two big fountains and swirling mass of automobiles going around in a circle.

He was trying to imagine what this site might have looked like in 1789 and throughout the French Revolution and the period of time known as “The Terror”. He knew that this was the place where the guillotine had been erected and many people, including the King and Queen of France, had been executed.

As he stood there with his parents, he asked a very simple question; “Where did they put the guillotine?” No one knew the answer.

For me, that started a life-long fascination with history and in particular, European history. I was fortunate to have grown up in Europe (Holland and Germany) during the 1960’s. Today, my wife and I love to travel around Europe. We are visitors that like to see original buildings, places where the buildings stood and things like that. We want to know if the roof is the original one, is the wallpaper original or recreated. When we were in Shakespeare’s home, the docent told us that one of the rooms we were walking through had the original floor that Shakespeare walked on. We like that kind of stuff.

I think that there are a lot of people who travel, both domestically and internationally, that enjoy and approach history like us through their travels.

This is the reason why I am writing a book called Where Did They Put The Guillotine…A Walking Tour of Revolutionary Paris (1789-1794). Read More Where Did They Put the Guillotine?