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“Non, je ne regrette rien”

I have to admit that Sandy and I have a grave addiction. We became cemetery enthusiasts as a result of writing the two volumes of Where Did They Put the Guillotine?  Part of our research required us finding various people in Paris cemeteries, past and present (we certainly didn’t want to tell you Jean-Paul Marat was buried somewhere and low and behold, he wasn’t there—we actually never did find him but I suspect he’s buried under the parking lot of Église Saint-Étienne-du-Mont).

Stew sitting next to the Sanson Family grave in Montmartre Cemetery. They were six generations of French executioners. Photo by Dan Owen (2013).
Stew sitting next to the Sanson Family grave in Montmartre Cemetery. They were six generations of French executioners. Photo by Dan Owen (2013).

Years ago, during one of our trips to Paris, we started by visiting some of the more well-known cemeteries (e.g., Père Lachaise, Montmartre, and Montparnasse) and then in subsequent trips, moved on to several lesser known cemeteries (e.g., Picpus and Versailles). At some point during our many visits to Paris, Sandy managed to find her way down into the Catacombs (I have claustrophobia so I didn’t go and if you suffer from it, you shouldn’t go). Once she ascended the stairs back to the living, we hopped on a Métro and visited several famous parish cemeteries—at one, we were hoping to find Louis XVII’s grave (like with Marat, we were unsuccessful).

Courtyard of the Sainte-Marguerite Cemetery. Reportedly, Louis XVII was buried here. Photo by Dan Owen (2013).
Courtyard of the Sainte-Marguerite Cemetery. Reportedly, Louis XVII was buried here. Photo by Dan Owen (2013).

While the permanent residents of these Paris cemeteries are the main draw for visitors, it is easy to become infatuated with the architecture and symbols of the memorials: from the simplest of markers to the most ornate structures you’ll ever see in a grave yard. It seems there are memorials built in architectural styles compatible to every conceivable era: Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Gothic, Romanesque, Classical, Egyptian, Italian Renaissance, Baroque, Modern, and others. Then there is a second overlapping theme to each memorial: the funerary architecture adorning the grave. Join me as I take you through a quick explanation of some of the most common symbols and icons used in cemeteries. Knowing what they mean can fill in a lot of information about the resident who lies below.


Did you Know?

I never met Mr. Louis Wilson but if I had, I think I would have liked him (for those of you who know me, I like people with a good sense of humor). Mr. Wilson passed away in 1991 at the age of sixty. He’s buried in Whiskeytown, California and his grave is marked with two tablets: a photograph of Mr. Wilson and his epitaph which reads, “Here Lies Louis Ovell Wilson. Wanted To Be Buried Face Down So The World Could Kiss His Ass.” I think Mr. Wilson was probably a curmudgeon but hey, at least he was a humorous one. Based on his epitaph, I suspect Mr. Wilson didn’t place any value on symbolism and it’s likely he is having the last laugh.


Tombs, Sculptures, Memorials

Besides the mausoleum, the oldest funerary monument is the sarcophagus. The remains of the deceased lie inside their sarcophagus. These are typically found in the large European churches. My favorite is Saint-Denis where the French kings, queens, and their relatives were laid to rest in beautiful sarcophagi with carved marble recumbent statues on top. It’s too bad they all got dumped out during the French Revolution and thrown in the river or a giant pit. Another famous example is Napoléon’s tomb in Paris. He lies inside six coffins. The first is made of tin, next is mahogany, then two lead coffins, an ebony one, and then the final coffin we all see—oak. Read More “Non, je ne regrette rien”

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Cyndi Lauper and the Naked Princess

Note: My sister-in-law once told me how the title of this prior blog (October 2014) caught her eye and she was compelled to read it. When we looked at the number of people who visited the blog, it confirmed there was a lot of interest. So, we decided to reprint the blog (albeit in an expanded version). Hope you enjoy it!

My previous blog was about a male musician (Jim Morrison) so I thought I’d give equal time to a female musician. One of Cyndi Lauper’s more popular songs was, “Girls Just Want to Have Fun.” I thought of this song as I was researching Pauline Borghèse (aka Pauline Bonaparte—Napoléon’s sister). Actually, I’m listening to Cyndi’s CD while writing this blog. As we’ll see, Pauline was just a girl wanting to have fun. Watch Cyndi Lauper’s music video here.


Did You Know?

I have no idea if these quotes, habits, or known facts about Napoléon are true. But it’s fun to speculate:

*  “The Little Corporal” wasn’t that short at 5 feet 7 inches. The problem was his bodyguards towered over him and so he was considered short.

* Napoléon cheated at cards and all other games—he hated to lose. I’ve always said, it’s good to be king or in this case, emperor.

* The Emperor loved long, hot baths. See below.

* Napoléon was extremely superstitious. He was once asked if he wanted smart generals. He responded by saying no, he wanted lucky generals.

* As a warm-up for the next four habits: Napoléon liked to pinch people—both men and women.

* Prior to returning from his travels, Napoléon always wrote to his wife (or mistresses) instructing them not to bathe until he returned. Was this because he loved long, hot baths with a companion or was it a smelly fetish?

* As a lover, Napoléon wrote to Josephine once, “Take wing and come, come … A kiss on your heart, and one much lower down, much lower.”

* Continuing with Napoléon’s dirty talk—the 19th-century version of sexting: he once wrote a woman “How happy I would be if I could assist you at your undressing.”

* Finally, great speculation has been passed down for more than two hundred years that Napoléon’s penis was whacked off during the autopsy and given to a priest. Fake news about his dismembered member or was he a Bone Apart? Watch more here.


Let’s Meet Pauline

Portrait of Princess Pauline Borghèse. Oil painting by Robert Lefèvre (c. 1806). Palace of Versailles. PD-100+. Wikimedia Commons.
Portrait of Princess Pauline Borghèse. Oil painting by Robert Lefèvre (c. 1806). Palace of Versailles. PD-100+. Wikimedia Commons.

Pauline Bonaparte (1780–1825) had quite a life while living in Paris and Rome. Never one to hold political or society ambitions (she basically owed her society existence to her brother’s position), Pauline’s life was one of moving from one affair to another (being married never stopped her). Simply put, Pauline just wanted to have fun. She was very loyal to her brother as evidenced by her moving to Elba to be with Napoléon during his first exile (along with her mother, they were the only family members to do so). She liquidated her assets to support him during this time. After Napoléon’s defeat at Waterloo and ultimate exile, Pauline moved to Rome under the protection of the Pope. Read More Cyndi Lauper and the Naked Princess