Posted on April 27, 2024 March 21, 2024

The Grey Ghost

My aunt and three uncles served in World War II. Aunt Marge was a lieutenant and nurse who followed the 6 June 1944 invasion forces into Europe. Uncle Pete was an army sergeant serving in the Pacific Theater while Uncle Bill was the naval commander of a mine sweeping vessel in the Pacific. My mother’s only brother, Hal, enlisted in the U.S. Army Air Force in 1942. He was a young P-47 Thunderbolt fighter pilot in Europe and completed 97 missions. Hal’s missions were primarily over Italy and then Germany. His primary responsibilities included destroying enemy assets such as rail lines, depots, manufacturing, or any target deemed necessary for destruction.

P-47s of the 345th Fighter Squadron, 350th Fighter Group, 12th Air Force. Photo by anonymous (c. 1944). United States Army Air Forces. PD-U.S. government. Wikimedia Commons.

By August 1945, Germany and Japan had surrendered. More than 12.0 million American service men and women spread across 55 theaters of war needed to get home. One of the many vessels used to return them to the United States was the ocean liner, RMS Queen Mary. Stripped of its luxury furnishings and non-essential items, the ship was painted grey in 1939 and used as a transport ship.

Uncle Hal and 810,000 U.S. military personnel returned to America aboard the Queen Mary otherwise known as “The Grey Ghost.”

My aunt and uncles along with millions more like them came home and went on to become known as “The Greatest Generation.”

REVOLUTIONARY PARIS – Volume One & Volume Two

These books are about Paris. They are about the places, buildings, sites, people, and streets that were important parts of the French Revolution. You are about to enter a journey into history beginning in 1789 at the village of Versailles with the procession of the Estates-General and ending on the Place de la Révolution with the execution of Maximilien Robespierre on 28 July 1794. This is your personal walking tour of the French Revolution as it occurred in Paris and Versailles.

Did You Know?

Did you know that an urban model for mixed-use residential, commercial, and parks is being developed? It is called the “15-minute city” and is based on one’s ability to get to the shops and parks within a 15-minute walk from your residence. Scholars at Massachusetts Institute of Technology are researching, quantifying, and measuring the “urban fabric” to see if this model can become a reality. As you may suspect, there are those who enthusiastically support an urban model like this while others bemoan the likely demise of the automobile.

The waterfall at Bois de Boulogne, one of the parks enlarged by Baron Haussmann. Photo by Charles Marville (c. 1858). PD-Author’s life plus 70 years or fewer. Wikimedia Commons.

For those of you who have traveled in Europe, you are undoubtedly familiar with a city that was transformed in the mid-19th-century into a “15-minute walking city.” It is Paris. Napoléon III’s primary instruction to Baron Haussmann was to ensure every citizen could reach a park within a 15-minute walk. Prior to the seventeen-year “destruction and reconstruction” of the city, only forty-eight acres of parks existed. After 1870, more than 5,000 acres of new or expanded parks and twenty-four new squares were being enjoyed by the Parisians. Napoléon III’s goal of a “15-minute walkable city” had been achieved.

Napoléon III handing over to Baron Haussmann the decree to annex neighboring Paris communes. Painting by Adolphe Yvon (c. 1865). Musée Carnavalet. PD-Author’s life plus 100 years or fewer. Wikimedia Commons.

So, why spend millions and millions of dollars on studies when we can see and experience a contemporary example of the “15-minute city”? It does work.

Our next blog will be an expanded reprint of Charles Marville and le Vieux Paris.

(Click here to read The Missing Emperor and here to read Paris Digs.)

Operation Magic Carpet

By mid-1943, Gen. George C. Marshall (1880−1959), Army Chief of Staff, and others were sufficiently convinced Germany would ultimately be defeated. The general, a World War I veteran, was determined to avoid a similar demobilization debacle the army experienced in 1918-1919. However, twenty-five years later, he was faced with the same logistic issues but on a larger scale: how to get millions of service personnel back to the United States in a timely, orderly, and fair manner. He really couldn’t bring the men and women home until both Germany and Japan had surrendered. So, in July 1943, Gen. Marshall tasked the War Shipping Administration (WSA) to come up a plan for demobilization addressing which soldiers would remain in Germany, which soldiers would be sent to Japan to fight and finally, who would be the lucky ones to go home. The WSA was responsible for developing and coordinating the plan called “Operation Magic Carpet.”

Operation Magic Carpet officially commenced on 6 September 1945, four days after Japan surrendered and it ended 360-days later on 1 September 1946. At the time of Japan’s surrender, about 12.2 million men and women were serving in the American military (compared to 334,000 in 1939). Of these, about 8.0 million personnel were stationed overseas in the army, army air forces, navy, marines, and coast guard. Over the one-year existence of Operation Magic Carpet, about 22,222 American service personnel per day were delivered to their homes.

Illustration for “Operation Magic Carpet.” Illustration by anonymous (date unknown).

While getting these men and women home became top priority once the war was over, the biggest question was how to assign individual priorities for shipping out. The War Department came up with what they thought was an equitable point system called the “Adjusted Service Rating Score.” A total of 85 points was necessary to become eligible to return home. Women in the Women’s Army Corps were eligible with 44 points while officers were not included in the point system. A substantial number of military personnel were required to remain in Japan and Europe as occupation forces and four categories were established. Category One consisted of units to remain in Europe (eight divisions: 337,000 personnel). Category Two became the units deployed to fight in Japan (1.0 million men). Category Three were men and women retrained for reassignment to categories one and two. Category Four were the lucky ones. They got to go home.

The Stars and Stripes headline announcing the army’s point values for “Operation Magic Carpet.” Photo by anonymous (date unknown). www.derfcity.blogspot.com/2016/

A World War II soldier’s Adjusted Service Rating Card complete with his calculations of his point total. Photo by anonymous (date unknown). Courtesy of the Arlington Historical Society’s Fielder House Museum in partnership with The Portal to Texas History. https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/points-system-us-armys-demobiliztion

Under the point system, every soldier (I’ll use this term to mean all those eligible for consideration) received a number of points based on how long they had been overseas (one point for each month of service plus an additional point for each month overseas), how many decorations were awarded to them for valor or merit (five points per medal including the purple heart), how many campaigns they fought in (five points for each campaign), and how many children they had back home (twelve points for each dependent child up to a maximum of three children).

From the time the point system was announced in September 1944 until hostilities ceased, American service personnel kept close track of their point totals. At that point, combat personnel anxiously awaited news announcing which units were officially credited with a campaign, citations to be awarded individually or to the unit, and then had an officer certify their number after surpassing eighty-five. As expected, the system created just as many unhappy soldiers as there were happy ones. Despite being straightforward, the points system was not perfect or always fair. It was an administrative nightmare, and the soldiers found many faults with the system. Eventually, the military revised and lowered its projected needs for overseas personnel and the total points required to come home dropped from 85 to fifty.

U.S. personnel being transported back to the United States on board and in the hanger bay of the aircraft carrier USS Intrepid during “Operation Magic Carpet.” Photo by Edward F. Dolezal (c. 1945). PD-U.S. Government. Wikimedia Commons.

By the end of 1945, about four million people had returned to the United States. After the Japanese surrendered, the navy authorized combat ships (i.e., carriers, battleships, and smaller vessels) to join the civilian ships and begin transporting soldiers. The point system was discontinued in June 1946 and replaced with a two-year service requirement.

Click here to watch the video The Great Migration: The Story of Operation Magic Carpet.

RMS Queen Mary

The RMS Queen Mary (not to be confused with the contemporary Queen Mary 2) is a retired British (Cunard) ocean liner. It operated from 1936 until 1967 sailing primarily between Southampton and New York. It was built specifically for transatlantic voyages and the resultant rough seas. The ship’s gross tonnage is 81,237 with a length of 1,019 feet and a beam of 118 feet. It has twelve decks and a height of 181 feet. (For comparison purposes, the new Royal Caribbean cruise ship, Icon of the Seas, has a gross tonnage of 248,663, 1,197 feet in length and a beam of 160 feet. Twenty decks and a height of 240 feet makes the ship taller than the Eiffel Tower.) The Queen Mary’s capacity was 2,140 passengers while the Icon OTS carries 7,600 passengers.

The Queen Mary was one of the largest ocean-going ships of its day. In fact, the River Clyde in Glasgow, Scotland where she was built had to be dredged to allow for the ship to be floated out. (Even with that, the ship ran aground in March 1936 while leaving the River Clyde.) As an aside, the ship was originally supposed to be named after the late Queen Victoria (in keeping with Cunard’s tradition of its ships’ names ending in “ia”). But when the Cunard chairman asked King George V for permission to name the new ship after Great Britain’s “greatest Queen,” the king replied that his wife, Queen Mary, would be delighted. True story.

Group portrait of the British royal family: Sitting, left to right: Queen Mary of Teck, King George V, and Mary, Princess Royal. Standing, left to right: Prince Albert Duke of York (future King George VI), Edward Prince of Wales (future King Edward VIII), and Prince Henry Duke of Gloucester. Photo by Vandyk photographic studio (c. 1921). PD-Published before 1 January 1929. Wikimedia Commons.

The interior of the Queen Mary was very luxurious and decorated in Art Deco style. It had all the things you would expect including dog kennels, telephone connectivity to anywhere in the world, and air conditioning. It was the first ocean going vessel to be equipped with a Jewish prayer room. This was done purposely in response to the antisemitism of Hitler and Nazi Germany. Over the years, the Queen Mary was the only way to travel for celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Abbott & Costello, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Laurel & Hardy, Cary Grant, and a six-time passenger, Winston Churchill. A large map in the main dining room tracked the ship’s position on the Atlantic using a crystal model of the ship. Both routes, north and south, were shown ⏤ the southern, or winter/spring route was used to avoid hitting icebergs. Yes, the Queen Mary had enough lifeboats for everyone on board. Cunard’s predecessor, White Star Lines, learned their lesson twenty-four years earlier.

The Atlantic map in the Royal Salon on board the RMS Queen Mary. Notice the two tracks representing the northern and southern routes the ship took depending on the season. Photo by Florian Boyd (2 January 2008). PD-CCA-Share Alike 2.0 Generic. Wikimedia Commons.

The promenade deck on the RMS Queen Mary. Photo by Altair78 (10 December 2010). PD-CCA-2.0 Generic. Wikimedia Commons.

World War II

Leaving Southampton in late August 1939, the Queen Mary was escorted across the Atlantic by the British battlecruiser, HMS Hood. By the time she reached New York City (NYC), World War II had begun. The Queen Mary was ordered to stay in NYC until she received further orders. On 7 March 1940, Cunard’s new RMS Queen Elizabeth (named after King George VI’s wife; later known as the “Queen Mother”) arrived at Pier 90 while the inactive French ship, SS Normandie, was docked at Pier 88. For fourteen days in March, the world’s three largest ocean liners were docked side-by-side. On 21 March, the Queen Mary received her orders to sail for Sydney, Australia where she would be converted to a troop transport vessel.

RMS Queen Elizabeth (left) and RMS Queen Mary (right) in Southampton. The QE has undergone repainting and conversion for her return to commercial sailing. The QM is still in her wartime colors as this was the last day of her war duties. Photo by anonymous (27 September 1946). PD-Photo taken more than 70 years ago. Wikimedia Commons.

The three largest ocean liners docked together in New York. The SS Normandie (left) is docked at Pier 88 in mid-town. The RMS Queen Mary (center) and RMS Queen Elizabeth are docked at Pier 90. The QE arrived on 7 March 1940 and two weeks later, on 21 March, the QM left. Photo by anonymous (c. March 1940). Ships Nostalgia. https://www.shipsnostolgia.com/media/normandie-queen-mary-and-queen-elizabeth-troopships-ww2.258317/

While at the Cockatoo drydock, the ship was stripped of its wood (or covered in leather) and luxury furnishings and fittings including tapestries and paintings while six miles of carpet were removed, and 220 cases of fine china were put in storage. (I’ll bet they kept the cocktail bar for the officers.) During the conversion, the ship and its funnels were painted battleship grey. Combined with her speed, color, and secret travels, the Queen Mary was nicknamed, “The Grey Ghost.” The hull was fitted with protection from magnetic mines and thousands of triple-tiered, fixed wooden bunks and hammocks were installed throughout the ship. Although anti-aircraft guns were placed on the Sun Deck, it was really her speed that kept the Queen Mary safe from enemy U-boats. Reportedly, Hitler offered the Iron Cross and US$250,000 to any U-boat captain who sank either the Queen Mary or Queen Elizabeth.

RMS Queen Mary in Sydney, Australia after her conversion to a troop transport ship. Photo by anonymous (c. 1940). State Library of New South Wales collection. PD-No known copyright restrictions. Wikimedia Commons.

Anti-aircraft gun on the deck of the RMS Queen Mary. Photo by User:Sfoskett (28 June 2005). PD-GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or later. Wikimedia Commons.

The interior of a cabin on the RMS Queen Mary. Photo by David Krieger (29 October 2005). PD-CCA 2.0 Generic. Wikimedia Commons.

Her first assignment as a troop transport ship was to carry soldiers from New Zealand and Australia to England. About 15,000 men could be carried in one crossing. The Queen Mary set the record in July 1943 when she carried 16,683 men on one trip. The ship was fast. It could do up to 38 knots and easily outrun the German U-boats which is why she often crossed the Atlantic without escort ships. One of her most famous passengers during the war was Winston Churchill. He crossed several times for meetings with other Allied leaders and traveled under the name “Colonel Warden.”

Winston Churchill and his chiefs of staff around a conference table aboard the RMS Queen Mary enroute to the United States. Left to right: Air Marshal Sir Charles Portal, Admiral of the Fleet Sir Dudley Pound, Gen. Sir Alan Brooke, and Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Photo by Harold Tomlin (c. May 1943). Imperial War Museum. PD-Expired copyright. Wikimedia Commons.

Australian Army soldiers likely on board the RMS Queen Mary. Photo by anonymous (c. May 1940). Australian National Maritime Museum on The Commons. Samuel J. Hood Studio Collection. PD-No known copyright restrictions. Wikimedia Commons.

Demobilization

Demobilization officially ended on 30 June 1947. Only 1.6 million military personnel remained on active duty (reduced from 12.2 million two-years earlier). Active divisions were reduced from 89 to twelve. Operation Magic Carpet was considered a success with more than seven million people repatriated to America in only two years (at least the military brass branded it a success). It had been the largest mass people movement effort ever attempted.

RMS Queen Mary bringing American troops home from Europe. Photo by anonymous (c. 1945). New York Historical Society. Rare Historical Photos. https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/crowded-ship-bringing-american-troops-1945/ — RMS Queen Mary bringing American troops home from Europe. Photo by anonymous (c. 1945). New York Historical Society. Rare Historical Photos.
https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/crowded-ship-bringing-american-troops-1945/

Cover to a “Soldiers Welcome Home” guide. Photo by anonymous (c. 1945). PD-U.S. government. Wikimedia Commons.

RMS Queen Mary sailing up the New York Harbor at the end of the war. Notice the troops standing on her decks. Photo by anonymous (c. June 1945). PD-U.S. government. Wikimedia Commons.

The Queen Mary was retrofitted between September 1946 and July 1947 for her return to passenger service. She was retired in 1967 and the City of Long Beach, California purchased the ship. Today, the grand ship is moored in Long Beach and serves as a floating hotel, museum, event facility, and tourist attraction. The supernatural stories onboard the “Grey Ghost” are likely exaggerations. But you never know.

Next Blog: “Charles Marville and le Vieux Paris”

Correspondence and Commentary Policy

We welcome everyone to contact us either directly or through the individual blogs. Sandy and I review every piece of correspondence before it is approved to be published on the blog site. Our policy is to accept and publish comments that do not project hate, political, religious stances, or an attempt to solicit business (yeah, believe it or not, we do get that kind of stuff). Like many bloggers, we receive quite a bit of what is considered “Spam.” Those e-mails are immediately rejected without discussion.

Our blogs are written to inform our readers about history. We want to ensure discussions are kept within the boundary of historical facts and context without personal bias or prejudice.

We average about one e-mail every two days from our readers. We appreciate all communication because in many cases, it has led to friendships around the world.

★ Read and Learn More About Today’s Topic ★

Frame, Chris. Queen Mary History. Chris’ Cunard Page. Click here to visit the web-site. Click here to read the article.

Goldwyn, Samuel (Producer) and William Wyler (Director). The Best Years of Our Lives. Samuel Goldwyn Productions, 1946. Click here to watch a scene from the movie.

National Library of Scotland. Restored color archive film of RMS Queen Mary on the Clyde (1936). Moving Image Archive. Click here to visit the web-site.

(this one’s for you Roland)

Niderost, Eric. RMS Queen Mary’s War Service: Voyages to Victory. Warfare History Network, 16 January 2017. Click here to read the article. (Note: this requires a subscription to read).

Sparrow, John C. History of Personnel Demobilization in the United States. Army Center of Military History. Washington, D.C.: CMH Publications, 1994.

Disclaimer:

There may be a chance that after we publish this particular blog, the video links associated with the blog are no longer accessible. We have no control over this. Many times, whoever posts the video has done so without the consent of the video’s owner. In some cases, it is likely that the content is deemed unsuitable by YouTube. We apologize if you have tried to access the link and you don’t get the expected results. Same goes for internet links.

What’s New With Sandy and Stew?

Sandy and I apologize to all of you who have contacted us in the recent weeks and months. We normally try to respond in a timely manner with comments or follow-up on any issues you raise. We have been delinquent in responding in our normal manner. Unfortunately, we’ve been dealing with aging parent issues, and it has taken an inordinate amount of our time. Please don’t stop communicating with us because of a lack of response. I have a pile of e-mails on my desk, and they will not be neglected. Hang in there with us. Your patience is greatly appreciated.

Thank you to all of you who subscribe to our blogs. It seems there isn’t a day that goes by where we don’t increase our readership. Please let your history buff friends and family members know about our blog site and blogs.

Someone Is Commenting On Our Blogs

Thanks to Jean-Paul Pallud for contacting us regarding our 2021 blog, OB West (click here to read the blog). He wanted us to know that five of the images I used in the blog were his photographs. I got the photos out of a magazine called After the Battle. I purchased several back issues because I was so impressed with the articles. The images were not credited, and I had an impossible time finding out who to credit. I even went as far as contacting the magazine but never heard back from them. (Unfortunately, according to Jean-Paul, the magazine no longer exists.)

Well, I’m happy Jean-Paul took the time to let us know. Sandy has corrected the image captions so future readers will know who took the photographs. I try very hard to make sure the image captions we use are correct and appropriate credit is given to the photographer and owner even when the image is the public domain. Mistakes happen and I’m grateful to those of you who contact us about errors and omissions. We immediately correct whatever is pointed out to us as the problem.

Jean-Paul is a rather prolific author of books on World War II and was a contributing writer to After the Battle. I’m looking forward to reading some of his books and maybe find an interesting topic to put into a blog. In the meantime, I’ve asked Jean-Paul to write a guest blog for us in the future. Stay tuned.

Shepherd.com is like wandering the aisles of your favorite bookstore.

Do you enjoy reading? Do you have a hard time finding the right book in the genre you enjoy? Well, Ben at Shepherd.com has come up with an amazing way to find that book.

Shepherd highlights an author (like me) and one of their books. The author is required to review five books in the same genre. So, if a reader is interested say in cooking, they can drill down and find specific books about cooking that have been reviewed by authors in that category. Very simple.

If you like to read, I highly recommend you visit Shepherd.com. If you do, please let me know what you think and I will forward Ben any suggestions or comments you might have.

Click here to visit Shepherd’s website.

Click the books to visit Stew’s bookshelf.

Check out Stew’s new bookshelf on the French Revolution.

Follow Stew:

Image 11-16-22 at 10.38 AM — Shepherd.com

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Walks Through History

Posted on August 13, 2022 September 16, 2022

Stew and Sandy’s Summer Vacation in the U.K.

So, we come back to our slide show after a four-week intermission (click here to read the blog, Stew and Sandy’s Summer Vacation in Paris). Hopefully you enjoyed a rather lengthy blog about our adventures in Paris. I tried to mix a travelogue with historical tidbits.

So, settle back once more and join us during our days in the U.K., specifically London and Glasgow. Make sure your drink is filled and buttered popcorn is plentiful.

The 1950s family slide show. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Did You Know?

Did you know that on 16 July, France officially remembered the 80th anniversary of the Vel d’Hiv roundup? The country is frantically trying to collect eyewitness accounts of this tragic two-day event in which more than thirteen thousand Jews in Paris were arrested and ultimately deported⏤most of whom never returned. (click here to read the blog, The Roundup and Cycling Arena) The survivors of the roundup and in particular, those detained at the Vel d’Hiv are now in their mid-to-late 90s and there are few of them remaining. Previous roundups targeted primarily foreign-born Jewish men. However, by mid-1942, French-born Jewish men, women and children were targeted for arrest. (More than half of the Jews arrested over those two days were women and children with children accounting for four thousand of the detainees in the large cycling arena.)

The Mémorial de la Shoah in Paris (i.e., Holocaust Museum and Memorial) has launched an appeal to find the last witnesses and survivors. The historians know thousands of stories are permanently lost but they are constantly amazed how many witnesses show up to recount their stories. In most cases, it is the first time since the war that these people have talked about their experiences. Despite eighty years later, their memories are as fresh as if the events happened yesterday.

Joseph Schwartz was fifteen at the time of the roundup. He lost his entire family after the French police made the arrests. He said, “You leave your parents one day, everything is fine. They kiss you; they tell you, ‘Take care of yourself,’ and the day after, there is nobody left.” Looking back, Joseph is shocked that the French police were granted medals for resistance. He says, “Preserving the memory is always necessary for a nation. Hiding the dark days of a country brings nothing to the future of that country.”

Cover for volume two of “Where Did They Put the Gestapo Headquarters? Roundups & Executions.” The cover image is the only known photograph taken during the Vel d’Hiv roundup in July 1942. Transport buses are lined up outside the Vélodrome d’Hiver. Photo by anonymous (c. July 1942).

Day Eight: Underground to London

Today was travel day on the Eurostar. We were leaving Paris and going to England via train under the English Channel. I’m glad we got to Gare du Nord earlier than normal. It took us more than one hour to go through six check points. We eventually settled into our seats for the two-and-a-half-hour trip. Believe it or not, the actual time in darkness is less than twenty minutes. We were really under the channel for probably only fifteen minutes⏤the train travels very fast. We pulled into London’s St. Pancras International rail station just in time for lunch.

Arriving at St. Pancras rail station⏤where were all these black taxis when we needed them? Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

A short cab ride away was our hotel, Dorset Square Hotel, facing the private Dorset Square. On the way, we were glad to see that the red double-decker buses did not go the way of the red telephone booths. The cabs remain black in color but probably twenty percent of them are electric and they are all quite roomy. After checking in and leaving our bags, off we went to find Harrods Department Store. Dinner that night was at The Rajdoot, a small Indian restaurant right around the corner from the hotel⏤it was an excellent culinary experience. (While traveling in England and eating Indian cuisine, we have never had anything less than a first-class meal.)

The iconic London double-decker bus. Photo by Sandy Ross (12 June 2022).

One of the main entrances to Harrods department store. Photo by Sandy Ross (12 June 2022).

The butcher department at Harrods. Photo by Sandy Ross (12 June 2022).

Day Nine: London and Bletchley Park

We took the early morning West Midlands train out of Euston Station to Bletchley Park (click here to visit the web-site). This was the top-secret headquarters for Britain’s cryptanalytic and signals intelligence organization, the Government Code and Cypher School (GC&CS), between August 1939 and March 1946. It was here that the best brains in Britain (men and women) deciphered the German military codes during World War II. It is estimated that the “Ultra” intelligence produced at Bletchley shortened the war by two to four years. The Ultra program penetrated the secret communications of the Axis powers by decoding the German Enigma and Lorenz ciphers.

Walking up the road from the rail station to the entrance of Bletchley Park. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

An Enigma code machine. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

A Siemens and Halske T52 machine with a built-in teleprinter that could transmit messages. It was also known as a “Geheimschreiber,” or “secret writer.” Transmissions were sent over telephone lines so that interception was difficult. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

A Typex machine used to decode German transmissions. This machine intercepted the message sent by double-agent “Garbo” to German high command just after D-Day on 6 June 1944. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Click here to read the blog Double Cross System.

Filing cabinet used for research index cards. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Admiral Sir Hugh Sinclair, head of Secret Intelligence Service, bought the property in 1938 and moved GC&CS into the mansion with Commander Alastair Denniston establishing his office on the ground floor. Dillwyn “Dilly” Knox, Alan Turing, and other really, really smart people were recruited as cryptanalysts.

Exterior view of Bletchley Park mansion. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

The interior of Commander Denniston’s office in the Bletchley Park mansion. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Over time, GC&CS expanded, and huts and blocks were built to accommodate the various decentralized work groups (e.g., Hut 14 – Communications center, Hut 1 – Wireless station, Hut 8 – Cryptanalysis of Naval Enigma, and Hut 4 – Naval intelligence). At its peak, Bletchley Park employed about three thousand people. Turing and Knox lived in apartments established in the stable yard cottages. Turing broke the Enigma code in his apartment.

Exterior view of the stable yard cottages where Dilly Knox and Alan Turing lived at Bletchley Park. The brick tower separates Knox’s apartment on the left with Turing’s apartment on the right. The room at the top of the tower is where Turing broke the Enigma code. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Hut no. 4 was used by Naval Intelligence for the analysis of Naval Enigma and Hagelin decrypts. Today, it is used as a food cafeteria. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Hut no. 8 was used for the cryptanalysis of Naval Enigma. Alan Turing’s office was located in this hut. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

Alan Turing’s office. Photo by Sandy Ross (13 June 2022).

There were many women recruited to work at Bletchley. (Click here to read the blog, Unit 387 & Hillsdale College). They were instrumental in breaking codes, some of which directly resulted in British military victories. Unfortunately, it was not until 2009 that the British government acknowledged the work performed by the Bletchley men and women.

We were extremely impressed with Bletchley Park and its restoration, historical presentation, and administration. Today, the Bletchley Park Trust is responsible for this unique piece of history. If you haven’t visited Bletchley Park, please make sure it is a stop on your next trip to England.

Day Ten: Borough Market and the SOE Memorial Monument

We were originally scheduled to catch a train from Paddington Station to go out to Bracknell to visit with Pat Vinycomb and her father, Stanley Booker (click here to read the blog, Last Train Out of Paris). Unfortunately, Stan was in the hospital. His family had thrown a big party for his 100th birthday (click here to read the blog, Stanley’s Century) and Pat said he must have celebrated too much. Anyway, we found ourselves with an open day.

So, off we went beginning with a stroll down Baker Street. Yes, there is a Sherlock Holmes museum on Baker Street. We opted not to go; instead, we found ourselves in the “official” Beatles retail store. I always found listening to music beat out reading a detective book. (I do both now.) From there, we walked until we reached 64 Baker Street. During the war, this was the headquarters of Special Operations Executive, the British-led secret organization used to drop agents into occupied countries to assist with resistance efforts. Unfortunately, it is now a commercial office building, and the only hint of its wartime activities is the commemorative blue plaque on the front of the building. Along the way, we encountered Chiltern Court on the corner of Baker Street and Marylebone Road. Now an apartment building, during the war three flats served as offices for the SOE Norwegian Section. It was here that the planning for the famous Telemark raids took place (click here to read the blog, Heavy Water). Again, only a commemorative blue plaque gives away the building’s contribution to the war efforts.

The blue plaque memorializing 64 Baker Street as the former headquarters of the Special Operations Executive, a secret service which supported resistance in all enemy-occupied countries during World War II. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

Stew standing next to the entrance at 64 Baker Street. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

Commemorative blue plaque on the side of Chiltern Court. It marks the location used to plan the Telemark raid by SOE agents of the Norwegian Section. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

Entrance to Chiltern Court where three apartments were used by the SOE Norwegian Section to plan the Telemark raid. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

We then made our way to The Temple Church, founded by the Knights Templar in the 12th-century (click here to visit the church web-site). Refer to my books, Where Did They Burn the Last Grand Master of the Knights Templar? (Click here to see the books). The church is surrounded by an area referred to as “The Temple.” This area is the principle legal district in London and one of its access points is through the Mitre Court passageway off Fleet Street.

Iconic statue of the two Knights Templar riding a horse. Located in the plaza opposite The Templar Church. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

The Temple Church. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

By now, we’re getting hungry and decide to have lunch at the Borough Market. Sandy wishes we had one of these where we live. Established in 1756, it is one of London’s premier outdoor markets. Good lunch but we were looking forward to dinner that evening at our favorite London seafood restaurant, Scott’s.

Borough Market. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

On the outer edge of the Borough Market. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

After lunch, we headed over to the Thames’ riverbank. Our objective was to locate the SOE Memorial Monument. It was a long walk but we got to walk under the London Eye, or Millennium Wheel. I think it’s the biggest ferris wheel I’ve ever seen. The view from the south bank of the parliament buildings and Big Ben is very scenic. We finally reached the monument. Unveiled in 2009, this is a memorial to the SOE agents of World War II. (click here to read the blog, Women Agents of the SOE). The bust is modeled after Violette Szabó, a F-Section agent who was captured, tortured, and interrogated by the Nazis before being sent to KZ Ravensbrück. In February 1945, Violette was executed at the age of twenty-three. Violette is one of only four women to have been directly awarded the George Cross (GC). The stone pedestal has a plaque dedicated to the 470 SOE agents who were sent on missions into occupied France. Another plaque is dedicated to the SOE agents who did not survive. The final plaque is dedicated to the Norwegian Resistance fighters sponsored by the SOE. It specifically calls out the agents who participated in the operation known as Telemark. Our next trip to London will include a visit to the Imperial War Museum where we can see the exhibit displaying Violette’s medals including the GC. Oh, our next trip will also include a stop at the Violette Szabó Museum founded in 2000 by Violette’s aunt. (Click here to visit the museum web-site).

Stew standing next to the SOE Memorial Monument. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

The plaque commemorating the commandos of the Telemark raid. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

The plaque commemorating the courageous SOE agents of World War II. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

View of the parliament buildings and Big Ben from across the Thames River. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

Day Eleven: Madame Tussauds London

Today, we have Madame Tussauds scheduled in the morning. It is right down the street from our hotel and our reserved time is 10:30 AM. The last time I came here was in 1965 when I was ten. I remember entering the main hall with the giant exhibit of Admiral Nelson dying on the top deck of his ship, HMS Victory, during the 1805 Battle of Trafalger. Smoke, cannon shots, and men shouting drowned out any visitor’s conversation. It was quite spectacular. When Sandy and I entered the main hall, we were greeted by three sets of elevators and a person directing us into one of them⏤strike one against Madame Tussaud. As we walked through the pathways and entered the halls, I seemed to recognize only about half the people⏤strike two against Madame Tussaud (and possibly me). To my credit, I did recognize Angela Jolie and her ex, Brad Pitt (they were separated from one another). I was also able to recognize the historical figures including the Royal Family (sans Harry and Megan), Chewbacca from Star Wars, and the Hulk. One of the biggest impressions I had as a ten-year-old was in the basement where The Chamber of Horrors was located. Almost sixty years later, it was no longer a part of the “museum” experience⏤strike three against Madame Tussaud. I was extremely disappointed. Sandy didn’t care. I think she has been sufficiently grossed out after helping me with the two French Revolution books (Where Did They Put the Guillotine? click here). Over the past forty-six years, she is very familiar with my interest in the macabre.

Stew and Winston Churchill. You would think I had just taken his cigar away from him. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Sandy and the first Queen Elizabeth. Photo by Stew Ross (15 June 2022).

This is “Sleeping Beauty,” and it is the oldest wax figure at Madame Tussauds. It was created by Philippe Curtius in 1765 and portrays Madame du Barry, mistress to King Louis XV. Her chest heaves up and down to make it look as though she is breathing. I remember her from my visit in the 1960s. Madame du Barry and her fate during the Revolution are described in my two books, “Where Did They Put the Guillotine? Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

I’m about to be grabbed by the Hulk. All right, I know, but the grandkids loved it. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Stew (left) and co-pilot, Chewbacca (right) planning the attack on the Death Star. Another hit with the grandkids. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

The remainder of the day was spent walking around London. We visited Regent Street as well as Carnaby Street. (This current version isn’t the one I remember from 1967.) One of our stops was to Liverpool Street Station, a large rail station. I wanted to see the statues memorializing the Kindertransport program, or “Children Transport.” (click here to read the blog, Kindertransport and Mr. Winton). Through the efforts of many people, ten thousand children (three-quarters of them were Jewish) were sent to England to be “adopted” by a family. Many of them arrived at Liverpool Street Station. Once war began on 1 September 1939, the borders were closed, the “underground” railroad was shut down, and many children were stranded to ultimately be lost in the extermination camps.

Regent Street with the remnants of the Queen’s Jubilee. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Carnaby Street. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022)

Backside of the London Palladium where the performers, stage personnel, and others entered through the “Stage Door.” Performers have included Judy Garland, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Petula Clark, Josephine Baker, Frank Sinatra, and Bob Hope. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Inside Liverpool Street Station. One of the three bronze statues memorializing the Kindertransport. The statue is “Für das Kind”, or “For the Children". It was dedicated in September 2033 and re-dedicated in May 2011 by Sir Nicholas Winton. It was sculpted by Flor Kent. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022). — Inside Liverpool Street Station. One of the three bronze statues memorializing the Kindertransport. The statue is “Für das Kind”, or “For the Children”. It was dedicated in September 2033 and re-dedicated in May 2011 by Sir Nicholas Winton. It was sculpted by Flor Kent. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Day Twelve: Travel to Glasgow, Scotland

Today, we grab our train at Euston Station and leave for Glasgow, Scotland. We’re scheduled to meet up with our friend Roland. We began corresponding with Roland years ago after he contacted us about one of our blogs. Roland’s career has been in the entertainment industry, and he is currently a location scout for various production companies. Our initial correspondence in 2020 centered around his dream project of producing a documentary on Antonia Hunt, an English teenager caught in occupied France (her book is referenced below). She got involved with the French Resistance including the Red Orchestra (click here to read the blog, Die Rote Kapelle). Roland was planning a trip to Paris and needed a personal guide. I introduced him to Raphaëlle and one of the places they visited was the Gestapo headquarters where Antonia had been held. I also found out that Roland’s father, Alexander, was a member of the last group to escape from Hong Kong days before the Japanese invaded the city. The Christmas Day breakout of 1941 is chronicled by Tim Luard (see below).

We arrived in Glasgow after a five-and-a-half-hour trip. (Roland recommended first class seats and I’m glad we listened to his advice.) Our hotel, Hotel du Vin & Bistro, was (and is) very unique. The owners purchased five separate row houses and combined/connected them into one hotel. Our room was in the third “section” and located at the top of a majestic staircase. We unpacked and then found one of the quaint outdoor patios where we ordered wine and waited for Roland to swing by. We sat next to a small hut designed for cigar smokers. It looked like a place where a hobbit would be comfortable. I don’t think Roland had a problem finding us (I think the hotel is a “watering hole” for the entertainment folks).

One side of the Glasgow rail station where the taxis pick up their passengers. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

The outside patio at the Hotel du Vin. Notice the hobbit hut for smoking cigars in the background? Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

The three of us walked a short distance to Caffe Parma, an Italian restaurant. I have a suspicion Roland might be a regular. (It was packed but we seemed to get a table with no problems). I can’t remember what Sandy or Roland ordered but I had the best seafood mussels (moules) I’d ever eaten. (Of course, they were Scottish.) I could have eaten many more if I had skipped the frites. Roland was gracious to pick up the tab considering he only owed me a beer after losing our bet on the UEFA Men’s Euro 2021 tournament. (I picked Italy to win; Roland unfortunately went with France.)

Caffe Parma with the Scottish “moules” at the upper right. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Day Thirteen: A Day in Glasgow with Roland

We spent the day with Roland driving around Glasgow and seeing the sights from the perspective of a native son. A lot of our day was talking (for us, mainly listening) about the history of Glasgow, its architecture, and some of its famous celebrities. The last time I was in Glasgow was the summer of 1973 when a high school friend of mine and I “backpacked” our way across Europe using a Eurail pass. My friend, Harry, had relatives in Glasgow. I don’t remember much from fifty years ago but I’m quite confident the two of us made our way to at least one pub during our short visit back then. I do know that Roland took us to a downtown pub (Stravaigan on Gibson Street) for lunch and the food was very good as was the beer.

Stew (left) and Harry (right) all gussied up for their trip to Europe. You can probably tell it was the early 1970s. Our parents made us wear those clothes, but we knew they would come in handy once in Paris. (You know, for all the French mademoiselles we planned on meeting.) Photo by Harry’s father (c. July 1973).

Our first stop was the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. This is an amazing museum with just about anything for anybody. There are stuffed animals, a World War II Spitfighter aircraft, priceless paintings, heads hanging from the ceiling, collections of odds and ends, and a pipe organ that is played each day. After the museum, we drove around the city passing through and by the university, cathedral, and particularly interesting, the areas down by the river where shipping, ship building, and other activities took place for hundreds of years. Many of these areas have been or in the process of becoming gentrified.

The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. The skies weren’t so sunny when we visited. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Inside the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. The “Floating Heads” exhibit by Sophie Cave (2009). Photo by Sandy Ross (17 June 2022).

The pipe organ inside Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Photo by Sandy Ross (17 June 2022).

Our last stop was the Glasgow Necropolis, a vast cemetery from the early 19th-century. Roland and I sat down on one of the walls while Sandy wandered off to get her photos.

One of the thousands of graves inside the Glasgow Necropolis. Truncated monuments indicate the occupant met a violent death. Photo by Sandy Ross (17 June 2022).

After the cemetery, it was time to say goodbye and Roland dropped us off at the hotel. He had a family get together while we needed to pack for an early morning departure.

Stew (left) and Roland (right) at the end of our visit to Glasgow. Photo by Sandy Ross (17 June 2022).

Day Fourteen: Back to Florida

Our day began at 2:00 AM. We flew out of Glasgow to Amsterdam where our flight back to New York originated. Then it was on to Tampa and a short ride home to Punta Gorda. Normally, it only takes us one day to recover but this time, it was a full three days. It was a great trip with a lot of moving pieces. I was surprised everything went off without any problems. We were fortunate to miss the transportation strikes, the oppressive heatwave, and the chaos in the airports. One week later and we would have likely been a pair of miserable travelers.

This would have been us if we had left for home several days later. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Biggest Disappointment

My biggest disappointment was our trip to Madame Tussauds in London. Sandy’s biggest disappointment was the Paris Sewer Museum (that was a close second for me). London is obscenely expensive (no, I don’t think the exchange rates were the problem).

Best Moments

Certainly, the best moments of our trip were those spent with our friends. We were also pleasantly surprised at how affordable Paris is compared to our prior visits (yes, the exchange rate helped us).

Recommended Places

Here are some of the places where we stayed and places to dine. These are establishments that Sandy and I would not hesitate to again eat at, stay at, or do business with them. Please remember, we do not take any compensation for highlighting or recommending commercial establishments.

Paris

Hotel

Les Deux Girafes

23, passage Beslay

75011 Click here for the web-site.

A four-star hotel that is quite comfortable, within walking distance of two métro stations (lines 3, 5 & 9), and situated in an area of many restaurants. The eleventh is an up-and-coming district. You won’t find many tourists here. Remember to bring your own washcloths.

Exterior of the Hotel les Deux Girafes in Paris’ 11th district. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Restaurants

Les Cent Kilos

2, rue de la Folie Méricourt

75011 Click here for the web-site.

A neighborhood French bistro that offers an eclectic menu. Very friendly and accommodating.

Les Rupins

35, bd de Magenta

75010 Click here for the web-site.

Excellent food, very friendly, and centrally located in the tenth district. All their food is homemade. Nice place to unwind after a trying day at the office.

Asian Wok (Thai)

63, rue Oberkampf

75011

A small “mom & pop” place that seems to be quite popular with the folks in the neighborhood. We were lucky to get a table. Excellent food!

Decorative wall in the Asian Wok restaurant. Photo by Sandy Ross (8 June 2022).

Strasbourg

Hotel

Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel & Spa

4, rue des Francs Bourgeois Click here for the web-site.

One of the best hotels we’ve ever stayed in. It is part of Marriott’s Autograph series and located in the pedestrian-only walking zone of the historic district.

Restaurant

La Corde à Linge

2, place Benjamin Zix

Strasbourg

There are plenty of restaurant choices in the historic section of Strasbourg. Raphaëlle picked this one and she did a good job. The menu offers both French and German cuisine (as you can imagine). Eating out on the patio next to the water was fun.

Car Rental

Europcar

Hotel Mercure

15, place de la Gare Click here for the web-site.

No problems whatsoever from time of pickup to drop off. I wouldn’t hesitate to rent from Europcar again.

London

Hotel

Dorset Square Hotel

39-40 Dorset Square Click here for the web-site.

A very quaint hotel situated in one of the best spots of London. Easy walk to the underground (Baker Street), Regent’s Park, a multitude of attractions, and many fine restaurants and pubs. Our room was on the small side with only one window. Next time, I’ll have a better idea of what type of room to reserve.

Front entrance to the Dorset Hotel. Dorset Square is across the street. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Exterior of the Dorset Hotel. Our room is just below the clock. It’s the only window in our room and it is in the bathroom. I think we’d have a couple more, but they seem to be bricked up. Do you know why six of the ten windows on this side of the building have been bricked up? E-mail me if you don’t know the answer but want to. Photo by Sandy Ross (15 June 2022).

Restaurants

The Rajdoot (Indian)

49 Paddington St. Click here for the web-site.

A small hole-in-the-wall restaurant easily overlooked. However, we voted it one of the best Indian dining experiences we’ve had. Just in case, get a reservation.

Phoenix Palace (Chinese)

5-9 Glentworth Street Click here for the web-site.

This is a very large restaurant and very classic “old-style.” Menu selection is huge and every item we ordered was top-notch. There were clearly many repeat customers. Seems it’s the restaurant where “everyone knows your name.”

Inside the Phoenix Palace restaurant. Classic Chinese restaurant atmosphere. Photo by Sandy Ross (14 June 2022).

Scott’s (Seafood)

20 Mount Street Click here for the web-site.

Best seafood restaurant by far and very expensive. Reservations are a must. The octopus carpaccio and dover sole are to kill for. This is definitely one of your London “celebrity” restaurants. (We had to beat back the crowds demanding our autographs. Oh wait, that was the red carpet at Madame Tussauds.)

Glasgow

Hotel

Hotel du Vin & Bistro

One Devonshire Gardens Click here for the web-site.

Very unusual and unique layout for a hotel. Comfortable and fun to explore. No air conditioning and the windows only crack open for ventilation. Upscale restaurant with nice bar. Very convenient with Roland guiding us around. Loved the “hobbit” cigar cave in the patio area. Situated in a nice quiet neighborhood and I’m glad I picked this hotel over one located downtown.

Exterior of the Hotel du Vin in Glasgow. Photo by anonymous (date unknown).

Restaurant

Caffe Parma

30a Hyndland Rd. Click here for the web-site.

Excellent food. Seems reservations are a must unless you are with Roland.

Next Blog: Prince, King and . . . Traitor? – 27 Aug

★ Learn More About Home Slide Shows ★

Hill, Michael. Funny Business: The Legendary Life and Political Satire of Art Buchwald. New York: Random House, 2022.

Hunt, Antonia. Little Resistance: A Teenage English Girl’s Adventures in Occupied France. London: Leo Cooper Secker & Warburg, 1982.

Luard, Tim. Escape from Hong Kong: Admiral Chan Chak’s Christmas Day Dash, 1941. Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press, 2012.

Soulier, Dominique. The Sussex Plan: Secret War in Occupied France 1943-1945. Paris: Histoire & Collections, 2013.

Williams, Brian (Foreword). Medal of Honor: Portraits of Valor Beyond the Call of Duty. New York: Artisan, 2003.

Disclaimer:

What’s New With Sandy and Stew?

As you read this, Sandy and I are likely in Montana visiting with two of our six grandchildren. Each summer, we took our vacations up at Flathead Lake in western Montana. We’d pulled our boat up there from Los Angeles and spend two weeks in a two-story log cabin (150 feet of lake front with a private dock). It’s nice for about four months out of the year⏤kind of like the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

Thank you to all of you who subscribe to our bi-weekly blogs. It seems there isn’t a day that goes by where we don’t increase our readership. Please let your history buff friends and family members know about our blog site and blogs.

Someone Is Commenting On Our Blogs

I’d like to thank Stephen F. for reaching out to us regarding the blog, Stew and Sandy’s Summer Vacation in Paris (click here to read the blog). Stephen pointed out I had misspelled Vosges. Sandy has corrected that error. Thanks again Stephen for that as well as your nice comments about our blogs.

Derek L. contacted us regarding the blog, SS City of Benares (click here to read the blog). Derek lives in Glasgow and has researched the sinking of the ship. He found a very little-known fact that twenty of the Indian cabin boys and crew also went down with the ship. The oldest wasn’t more than sixteen. We have updated the blog to include that historical fact. Thanks Derek. By the way, do you know anyone who can help me get tickets to next year’s Open?

If there is a topic you’d like to see a blog written about, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I love hearing from you so keep those comments coming.

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REVOLUTIONARY PARIS – Volume One & Volume Two

Did You Know?

Operation Magic Carpet

RMS Queen Mary

World War II

Demobilization

Next Blog: “Charles Marville and le Vieux Paris”

Correspondence and Commentary Policy

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Walks Through History

Did You Know?

Day Eight: Underground to London

Day Nine: London and Bletchley Park

Day Ten: Borough Market and the SOE Memorial Monument

Day Eleven: Madame Tussauds London

Day Twelve: Travel to Glasgow, Scotland

Day Thirteen: A Day in Glasgow with Roland

Day Fourteen: Back to Florida

Biggest Disappointment

Best Moments

Recommended Places

Paris

Strasbourg

Glasgow

Next Blog: Prince, King and . . . Traitor? – 27 Aug

★ Learn More About Home Slide Shows ★

Disclaimer:

What’s New With Sandy and Stew?

Someone Is Commenting On Our Blogs

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Walks Through History

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