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Fashion or Resistance?

Several years ago, I wrote a blog about the famous fashion designer and perfume entrepreneur, Coco Chanel. (click here to read the blog Coco Chanel: Spy or Collaborator?) Today, we will focus on the sister of one of France’s post-war fashion trendsetters, Christian Dior (1905−1957). His famous perfume, Miss Dior, was named after his beloved younger sister, Catherine, who was a French resistance fighter during the German occupation.

A bottle of Miss Dior perfume. Photo by Antoine Kralik (date unknown). Christian Dior Parfums.
A bottle of Miss Dior perfume. Photo by Antoine Kralik (date unknown). Christian Dior Parfums.

Did You Know?

Did you know that shortly after Germany invaded and occupied neighboring European countries there was a widespread concern among the British that the Germans would soon invade England? In fact, Hitler had plans drawn up for the invasion (click here to read the blog OB West and here to read Professor Dr. Six) called “Operation Sea Lion.” The British developed a plan for the defense of their island with a contingency plan for the development of England’s last line of defense. Secret auxiliary units known as “scallywags” were formed by volunteers. These groups of elite fighters were scattered throughout England and Scotland and tasked with sabotaging the Germans as they advanced through the country. These men knew the countryside and were trained in guerilla tactics. One of the strategies was to build underground bunkers where they could lie in wait for the Germans to pass by before emerging to attack. About five hundred bunkers were constructed around England. However, very few have ever been found and when one is found, it is purely by accident. The “scallywag” units were one of the most secretive British operations and the men who signed the Official Secrets Act never divulged their mission, often taking the story to their graves.

The bunkers measured about twenty-three feet long and ten feet wide. You entered through a hatch and exited from a rear hatch. These bunkers were stocked with enough food, weapons, and supplies to last five weeks for the seven soldiers who would occupy the bunker. The men knew that in case of an invasion, their life expectancy would likely be a maximum of two weeks. They recognized they had signed up for a suicide mission.

The few bunkers that have been found remain classified with respect to their locations. The government has converted the bunkers to artificial caves for bats to roost in.


Catherine Dior

Ginette Dior, or better known as Catherine Dior (1917−2008), was born in the coastal town of Granville on the western side of Normandy, south of Cherbourg-en-Contentin, near where the English Channel meets the Atlantic Ocean. Her family was financially well-off and lived in a large home known as Villa Les Rhumbs. She was the youngest child of Maurice and Madelaine’s five children: three brothers (Raymond, Christian, and Bernard) and a sister, (Jacqueline). The two closest siblings (albeit separated by twelve years) were Catherine and Christian. They shared a passion for gardening, art, and music. By the time Catherine was born, the family had moved to Paris, but they kept Les Rhumbs. The economic disaster of the early 1930s destroyed her father’s fertilizer company and after the death of her mother in 1931, Catherine and the rest of her family moved to Provence where her father purchased farm property known as Les Naÿsses near Callian, France. Read More Fashion or Resistance?

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“Dah-Dah-Dah-Duh”

I’m sure many of you are familiar with the opening to Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony. It starts with “Dah-Dah-Dah-Duh.”  Listen here.

Today, some people refer to Beethoven’s masterpiece as the “Victory Symphony.” Oh, and for some of you familiar with the movie, The Longest Day, you’ll recognize it as one of the back ground themes to this well-done account of D-Day ⏤ 6 June 1944. Watch the opening scene here.

During World War II, the BBC came up with the idea of opening its nightly broadcast to the occupied countries with the “Dah-Dah-Dah-Duh.” Was it coincidental that the four-sound phrase was Morse code (“dot-dot-dot-dash”) for the letter “V” which the British equated to Victory and Churchill’s famous hand signal? Was it coincidental that “V” is the Roman numeral for five or the fifth (as in symphony)? One thing I know is that it wasn’t coincidental that this striking sound alerted the French Resistance to pay close attention to that evening’s messages.

Winston Churchill in Downing Street giving his famous “V” sign. Photo by British Government (5 June 1943). Imperial War Museum. PD-British Government Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.
Winston Churchill in Downing Street giving his famous “V” sign. Photo by British Government (5 June 1943). Imperial War Museum. PD-British Government Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

Did You Know?

Did you know that before Christian Dior (1905-1957) founded his world renown fashion house in 1946, he designed clothes for the wives, daughters, and mistresses of Nazi officers stationed in Paris? At the same time, his sister, Catherine, worked for the French Resistance. She was arrested in June 1944 and deported to KZ Ravensbrück concentration camp and several sub-camps of KZ Buchenwald where she survived the war. However, Christian and Catherine’s niece, François Dior (daughter of Raymond Dior, a radical Communist), married the neo-Nazi, Holocaust denier, Colin Jordan in 1963. After the wedding ceremony, the couple gave the Nazi salute and mingled their blood over a copy of Mein Kampf, the book written by Hitler in the 1920s. François funded the creation of the French chapter of the World Union of National Socialists (a neo-Nazi organization) and supported former Waffen SS officers during the 1960s. Watch the wedding newsreel here.

The Colin Jordan-François Dior Wedding. Mingling blood over “Mein Kampf.” Photo by anonymous (1963).
The Colin Jordan-François Dior Wedding. Mingling blood over “Mein Kampf.” Photo by anonymous (1963).

Back to Christian Dior ⏤ his first post-war fashion featured dresses that were voluptuous and curvaceous with boned, busty bodices, tiny waists, and long, sweeping skirts. Some women complained the dresses covered up their legs. Dior called this collection the Corolle or, circlet of flower petals. Coco Chanel called it crap. She said, “Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable.” Christian Dior had the last laugh. Women flocked to buy his “new” fashions. Dior had bet wisely that women in the post-war wanted something new that would make them forget the drab years of the German Occupation. Ironically, Coco Chanel was run out of town as a highly visible Nazi collaborator (and possible spy – read the blog Coco Chanel Nazi Collaborator or Spy? here).

Silk shantung and pleated wool bar suit by Christian Dior ⏤ Spring-Summer 1947. Photo by SpiritedMichelle (2019). Denver Art Museum. PD-CCA-Share Alike 4.0 International. Wikimedia Commons.
Silk shantung and pleated wool bar suit by Christian Dior ⏤ Spring-Summer 1947. Photo by SpiritedMichelle (2019). Denver Art Museum. PD-CCA-Share Alike 4.0 International. Wikimedia Commons.

Competing Radio Stations

The British, the Germans, and occupied France’s Vichy government competed every night for the attention of the French people. In the British corner was the British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) while in France, the Nazis directly controlled Radio-Paris (116, avenue des Champs-Élysées) and Vichy broadcast over Radio Vichy from the Unoccupied Zone. The primary purpose of the BBC broadcasts was to lift the spirits of French citizens and provide information concerning the Allied war progress. With time, sophisticated messages to the French Resistance were included in the evening broadcasts. The programs emanating from Paris were intended to promote Nazi propaganda while Vichy primarily used their radio station for political purposes such as framing its collaboration with the Nazis in a positive way, denouncing Charles de Gaulle and the Free French as traitors, positioning the British as the enemy of France, and justifying the government’s new anti-Semitic laws. Read More “Dah-Dah-Dah-Duh”